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Classic
Ice Climbs
In
this guide we will describe some of the more classic ice climbs in the
White Mountains. This guide is by no means intended to be an all-inclusive
guide to the area. Instead, our focus in this guide is to not only describe
in general terms some of the great ice climbs the area has to offer,
but to also provide you with some different options on how to possibly
climb these great routes. Hopefully, this will give you some flexibility
if faced with unexpected conditions or crowds. Obviously, because the
medium here is ice, these routes could all be climbed a great number
of different ways. Our route and route variation descriptions have tried
to include alternatives (when appropriate), which could prove useful
if a route is already occupied. We've also tried to include information
which can give you some insight as to the nature of the individual climbs.
Route descriptions are based on the climbs being in their "typical" condition, whatever that is. Any of the routes could be considerably easier or harder than described depending upon weather, ice conditions, and the amount of traffic a route has seen. Most of the routes described can be done with what will call a "standard ice rack". This is simply comprised of enough ice screws to comfortably complete the route (varies from climber to climber) and an assortment of quick draws and slings. If a route normally requires any rock gear, that will be mentioned in the description. Of course, ice routes change from season to season and sometimes even daily. Check the latest conditions before you go.
Ice climbing, even more so than rock climbing, can be a very dangerous business. Falling any distance with crampons on and ice climbing tools and gear whipping all about is a really bad idea. Added to the falling hazard are the hazards of falling ice (natural and from other climbers), avalanches, short days, frostbite and hypothermia. Be careful!
The
Climbs
More routes will be posted as they become available
Frankenstein Cliff- Frankenstein Cliff is located alongside Route 302 in Crawford Notch State Park. To approach all the climbs at Frankenstein, park at the Arethusa Falls parking lot. This is the first left after you enter the state park, just past a scenic outlook. All the climbs described are an easy walk down the railroad tracks to the north. The tracks cross a large trestle which is a reference point for some of the approaches.
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Standard
Route NEI 3+
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Chia
NEI 3+-4+
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Pegasus
NEI 3-4
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Mount Washington- Some of the best alpine climbing in the east is in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington. Tuckerman Ravine, while famous for its spring skiing, can also offer some excellent early season ice climbing possibilities. The approaches for both ravines begin at the AMC Pinkham Notch camp on Route 16 in Pinkham Notch. Plan on about a two-hour hike to the base of both ravines.
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Tuckerman
Ravine NEI 1-4
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Huntington
Ravine NEI 2-3
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Duck's Head- Hard mixed and thin ice climbing in Jackson. Probably the most difficult collection of this type of climbing in the area.
Duck's
Head
Mostly "M" grades & mostly hard
Remember, climbing is dangerous. We work very hard to ensure the quality and accuracy of our route descriptions, but there will almost certainly be errors or omissions. Our route guides are only one of many tools which might be used to make your climb a safe one. They are not nearly as important as training, experience, and sound judgment. If you lack sufficient amounts of any of these, the best route description in the world won't guarantee a safe conclusion to a climb. Chauvin Guides International cannot be held liable for anything that goes wrong on a climb.
© Chauvin Guides International, P.O. Box 2151, North Conway, NH 03860 Voice: 603-356-8919