Huntington
Ravine Mt. Washington, NEI 1 - 3
The
Descents
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Winter
Lion Head Trail- Steep!
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Via Lion Head: There is only one non-technical descent from the top of any of the climbs in Huntington Ravine. Most of the climbs top out on or near the Alpine Garden. The Alpine Garden is a plateau due east of the summit cone of Mount Washington. Going north/south on the Alpine Garden is the Alpine Garden Trail. Central, and Yale top out virtually on the trail. South, Odell's, Pinnacle, Damnation, and North will require a short walk west to get to the trail. Walk south southwest on the Alpine Garden Trail till you reach the Lion Head Trail. The Lion Head Trail walks along the northern rim of Tuckerman Ravine. Follow the Lion head Trail down to the snowcat trail and follow that to Pinkham Notch. Note: Just as the Lion Head Trail reaches tree line, one of two trails will be open. If you are early in the season the summer trail will be open and it will take you down to the Hermit Lake Shelters. If snow has filled in the avalanche slopes that exist on the summer trail then the winter trail will be open. This will take you (steeply) to a point between the Tuckerman Ravine trail and the Harvard Cabin. This winter trail is not marked on the map because it was cut to avoid a landslide that occurred after the map was made. It is however, shown on the map included in this section of this site.
The other descents are all technical in nature as they have falling hazards and may require roped climbing, rappelling, and an ability to perform an ice axe self-arrest. The most common of these is a descent down the Escape Hatch. The others include; The Pinnacle/Odell's/ South Descent, Diagonal, and the North Side Descent.
The Escape Hatch: This north facing gully can be hard to find and people often mistake South Gully for it, creating a much harder descent. The best way to find it is to stay close to the lip of the ravine following it to the top of its southern rim. Try to locate the tops of the gullies as you go. Remember there are a couple of "Odell's Gullies" that top out. Continue past the top of South to an elevation of about 4800' and begin looking for a cairn with a shovel handle sticking out its top (the shovel handle was there in 2008 and has been there for some time). That cairn marks the top of the Escape Hatch. When the Escape Hatch is in good condition it can be glissaded. In icy conditions it will require crampons and ice axe and at times of low snow it can be the most hideous bush thrash you can imagine. Check out the line and condition of the gully when you are on the floor of the ravine during your ascent.
The Pinnacle/Odell's/ South descent; This descent starts from the top of the Pinnacle Buttress and heads down a gully that leads south towards the top of the ice in Odell's. Traverse around the top of the wide ice flow of Odell's. To do this you will have to cross over some minor ridges/buttresses that separate the various gullies of Odell's. One of them requires some careful climbing and probably should be done roped up. Once you reach the other side of the ice, head over a small rise to a snow slope that brings you to the base of South Gully. Descend snowfields back to the floor of the ravine.
Diagonal: At the top of Central there is a large cairn. This is where the summer Huntington Ravine Trail intersects the Alpine Garden Trail. From this cairn descend down angling skiers left (northward) until you hit the Diagonal Gully. Diagonal is like Pinnacle in that it is hidden from view. It splits the buttress between Central and Yale. Diagonal empties out over the frozen waterfall mentioned in the Yale description. A fall in Diagonal will have serious consequences because of this obstacle. Once you reach the top of the frozen waterfall traverse skiers left (northward) and either descend between the frozen waterfall and the Harvard Slab or continue traversing across the top of the Harvard Slab taking a diagonal line toward the base of Damnation. Follow snow slopes down to the floor of the ravine.
North Side Descent: From the top of North Gully you can descend down along the side of North back to the floor. You will need to stay 1 to 2 hundred feet from the edge of the gully. The very edge of the gully is the summer rock route called the Henderson Ridge. In poor snow years this descent can be an awful bushwhack. Even in good snow years you will do some thrashing.
Remember there is no substitute for experience when route finding in the mountains. Try to locate each descent you might use during your ascent. Take your time and pull out the rope and belay any time you feel you need to. It may take longer but it is faster than never getting back at all. Have a good, safe and enjoyable climb.
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